Archive for the ‘For Photographers’ Category

Pictured below is everything you’d need to go out for an afternoon of picture taking…a hand held light meter, a pocket rangefinder, and of course the Univex Mercury II.

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I absolutely love odd and unusual old cameras, and the Univex definitely fits that bill!    The design is originally from the 1930s, and it’s smart Art Deco looks really reflect that.  It was an unusual design  even at the time–Univex was involved in making movie cameras, and they adapted a rotary shutter from that end of their business for this little 35mm camera.  The big bump on the top covers the upper half of that shutter disk.  Most 35mm cameras of the day used a leaf type shutter that’s part of the lens, although a few (like the Leica) used a cloth focal plane shutter that moved from one side to the other.  The rotary shutter uses a disk with a slot that exposes the film.  You can change the “speed” of the shutter by making the slot smaller–it offers up to 1/1000th of a second effective shutter speed, while the disk never goes faster than 1/20th of second.  Brilliant!

One result of this system is that the camera has to be a “half frame”–each frame is roughly half the size of a normal 24x36mm frame of film (and they’re vertical format, not horizontal).  In order to make it a “full frame” camera, the disk would have been the size of a dinner plate (!).  The upside of making the frames smaller is that you get many more frames per roll of film–more than 60 shots in the Mercury!  Because of their smaller size, they can’t be enlarged as much as their bigger brothers.

This is the Mercury II, which not surprisingly is a relative of the original Mercury.  The original model was produced prior to WWII, but it used a propriety film whose supply was interrupted by the outbreak of WWII.   During the War, Univex produced military hardware and after the war introduced the Mercury II.  This version uses standard 35mm film, and is a bit bigger as a result.  The Mercury also introduced a feature still used on modern digital cameras–the “hot shoe” flash!  Univex was the first camera maker to put an electrical contact on the flash shoe, eliminating the PC sync cord, something we can all still enjoy today.  Thanks, Univex!

That’s the history…so, how’s it handle?  It’s a mixed bag, but overall a nice little camera.  The knobs on the front for winding and shutter speed are too close together, which makes it hard to wind.  The f-stop scale is tiny and positioned where it’s really hard to read.  The viewfinder is small, but useable (I’ve used worse).  The focus ring is thin and kind of hard to grasp.  The aluminum alloy they used to cast the body is prone to corrosion.  There are no strap lugs, so if you want to sling it over your shoulder you have to use the case.  It doesn’t have a rangefinder, although one was offered as an accessory.

That might sound like a lot of bad news, but the Mercury has a lot of really nice features too…it feels great in your hands, with a very solid build quality and nice rounded edges.    The shutter is very accurate (far more accurate than the leaf shutters that were very common at the time).  It can shoot a TON of frames on one roll, which was (and is) very unusual.   The lens is an anastigmat, and is quite sharp (and at f2.7 reasonably fast).  It also has data plates all over it for calculating depth of field and exposure, which gives you all the information you need for outdoor photography–even if you don’t have a light meter or rangefinder.

In spite of it’s ergonomic drawbacks, I really like this one.  It’s a fun, “different” camera that still takes great pictures more than 60 years after its introduction.

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Testing the Sigma 15-30mm

March 27, 2008

I was discussing this lens with another photographer who was interested in buying one, but hadn’t had much luck with Sigma in the past. He looked at some of the shots I took with it and liked them, but thought that the edges looked soft, which got me wondering… Looking at the areas he thought were soft I couldn’t tell if the effect was just a result of wide angle distortion, or if there really was a possible focal difference between the center and the edges indicating there was something wrong with the lens. To find out, I put together this test.

This is a shot taken on my 1Ds at 15mm, aperture was f11 or f16. The exposure is on the hot side because this was actually used as part of a blended composite I made. It does illustrate how this lens performs pretty well though. All shots have default Lightroom sharpening applied.
This shot can be used as the “key” for the other shots:

Sigma 15-30mm Test Shot

Here is crop number 1:

Sigma 15-30 Crop 1

You can clearly see the ballesters on the bridge, and make out enough detail in the foliage.

Here’s crop number 2:

Sigma 15-30mm Crop 2

Again, the tree detail is pretty good. I’m actually pleasantly surprised at how well this lens resolves detail at the edges even at 15mm.

Here’s crop number 3:

Sigma 15-30 Crop 3

This is taken right from the center of the lens, where you would expect it to be the sharpest. Not surprisingly it does seem to resolve slightly more detail than the edges. The difference is surprisingly small for a lens this wide (and in this price range) though.

Here is crop number 4:

Sigma 15-30 Crop 4

Again, it shows that there really doesn’t seem to be any focal difference between the center and edges.

If nothing else, this test confirmed that this lens has surprising performance (particularly when stopped down). Even at 15mm on a full frame camera, I’m very impressed with it’s performance.

*Additional Note* One other thing I should mention to make this a more complete review is the flare. This lens like any other will flare when the sun hits it, but in ways other lenses don’t… “Good flare” and “Bad flare” are subjective of course, but this lens has what is probably best described as “unique flare”. Instead of getting really washed out, or having multiple rings appear, this lens flares with a single big deep purple spot. I don’t have an example handy, but if you search you can probably find one. It’s a strange effect…I can’t think of another lens that flares quite like this one. Best way to avoid it–keep direct sun out of the frame :) . I’ve used my hand to shield it, and that can work too if the sun is at the edge of the frame.

One other thing–for some reason this lens will produce much more saturated skies when the sun is at a low angle in the sky…it almost looks like there’s a polarizer on it when the sun gets low. Is that good or bad? Depends I guess…personally I really like the look of it. In many ways, this lens is kind of a one of a kind…

 For years I never used a lens wider than 28mm.  This was the old standard “wide angle” lens for a 35mm camera.  For many years anything wider than that was kind of a “specialty” lens, and many of them weren’t even rectilinear lenses–they were fish eye lenses.  Times have changed…along with the digital revolution in cameras, a new crop of ultra wide angle lenses are now on the market at reasonable prices that put them in the reach of many consumers.  My personal favorite is the Sigma 15-30mm.   It’s big, but light weight, and at 15mm it’s got an enormous field of view on a full frame or 35mm camera.  It also performs well on 1.6 crop sensor cameras, but it really shines on a full frame sensor.  At first glance, most people tend to think of and ultra wide (wider than 24mm) lens as the tool of choice for getting those sweeping views when shooting landscapes.  But they’re really much more.  The distortion they create and their extreme close focusing ability make these lenses a very interesting creative tool.  As an example, see the photo below.  I shot this at 15mm on a full frame camera.  I was very close to the car, and the ultra wide angle really gives a unique stretched perspective you can’t get any other way.
Haunted Chevy

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